I visited the Caribbean island of St. John on a cruise when I was a kid, but don’t remember much about it other than it was beautiful! So I was very glad to have Candi Hurst from Castles and Carpools offer to write this guest post to give you an updated travel guide to St. John, USVI. Enjoy!
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For many years, when I thought of the Caribbean, I pictured cruise ship-laden waters and all-inclusive resorts. And visiting such places it certainly an enviable way to spend a vacation.
But, it turns out the Caribbean has a different side too. St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands is the Caribbean’s laid-back cousin to places like Jamaica and the Bahamas. That’s because you won’t find mega hotels, casinos, or miles of beaches lined with umbrella-welding attendants. You will find pristine coastlines, magazine-cover-worthy wildlife, and a fascinating history.
St. John, USVI is an idyllic getaway spot for those looking to experience a tropical locale. With lots to do in an easygoing setting, visitors can find time to both explore and unwind. The island is a place we’ve been many times. (And that’s no small thing coming from someone who believes there are too many places to explore to visit many more than once.)
So grab your flip flops and sunhat and follow along to learn why I think St. John, USVI is so special.
About St. John
Saint John is located in the eastern Caribbean Sea, approximately 80 miles from San Juan, Puerto Rico. About 4 miles of water separates St. John from St. Thomas, where the territory’s capital, Charlotte Amalie, is located. The British Virgin Islands are located about 4 miles to the southwest of St. John. As the smallest of the 3 main U.S. Virgin Islands, St. John encompasses only 27 square miles. Its jagged coastline is 3 miles wide and 9 miles long.
Cruz Bay is the main town in the island and the location of the most accommodations, restaurants, and shops. It also serves as the transportation hub of the area. It’s located on the western side of the island, while the more rural side is to the east. This easterly area is called Coral Bay.
Like much of the Caribbean, St. John boasts year-round warm weather with highs averaging in the high 70’s to 80s. There’s only about a 5-degree difference between its coldest month, January, and it’s warmest month, August.
Peak season on St. John is generally considered to be between mid-December and early April. Mid-April to early December is low season, partially because that timeframe encompasses hurricane season from June through November.
History of the Island
St. John’s recorded history dates back to the 1600’s when it was claimed as part of the British Leeward Islands.
It later became the property of Denmark and was farmed for sugar, cotton, and other crops. With the establishment of plantations, came a long history of slave trading. Attempted uprisings from the brutalities and inhumanity of the practice occurred until Denmark emancipated slaves in 1848.
In the early 1800’s, the island’s population peaked at over 2,500 inhabitants. It slowly declined over the next century and a half to just hundreds of islanders by 1950. During World War I, the United States purchased the islands that would become the U.S. Virgin Islands. Private investors later acquired land on St. John, birthing the first efforts of tourism on the island.
What is the island’s secret sauce today came in the form of a gift from Laurence Rockefeller in the 1950s. At that time, Rockefeller donated land he owned on St. John to the National Park Service.
So now much of the small island is protected. Almost two-thirds of St. John is deemed the Virgin Islands National Park. That means nearly 8,000 acres of land and over 5,500 offshore acres are not available for development. An additional 13,000 underwater acres are protected as the Coral Reefs National Monument.
How to Get To St. John, USVI
Part of the lure of St. John is that it’s less developed than some other Caribbean islands. However, that also makes getting here a bit more involved.
St. John has no on-island airport, although the area is serviced by St. Thomas’s Cyril E. King Airport.
The most convenient way to get to the island is to:
1 – Fly into St. Thomas
2 – Then take a taxi or rent a car to travel to the Red Hook Ferry in Charlotte Amalie.
3 – Travel on the ferry from Red Hook in St. Thomas to Cruz Bay in St. John. This route is the quickest. It takes approximately 20 minutes and the ferry runs frequently throughout the day. Both passenger ferries and car barges are available (for those who wish to pick up a car in St. Thomas).
Other options include hiring a private ferry service or departing from the other St. Thomas ferry port, Crown Bay. However, those options are usually more expensive, take longer, and are less convenient.
Where To Stay In St. John
Just because St. John is less commercialized than some Caribbean neighbors doesn’t mean there’s a shortage of great accommodations. Rental homes, boutique hotels, and even a (very) few larger resorts provide the perfect places to stay in St. John.
Larger Resorts in St. John
The island only has one hotel that is associated with a larger chain. The 250-room Westin St. John is part of the Marriott brand of hotels. The resort is on 12,000 feet of sandy beach. This is a unique characteristic of the property because many accommodations are on rocky beaches or high above the shoreline.
Three stories house studio, 1-bedroom, 2-bedroom, and 3-bedroom villas and townhomes. All room options have kitchenettes.
The resort also has a kids club, a large pool, tennis courts, a fitness center, and water sports nearby. Several dining options are located on-site as well.
Lodging can be booked through the hotel website or through rental home sites as some units are privately owned.
St. John Boutique Resort and B&B Options
Other St. John hotel options come with smaller footprints yet still have a lot to offer. Most are walking-distance to beaches and have the laid-back style indicative of St. John. They, in addition to rental homes, have become what St. John is known for.
Gallows Point is one such example and was our choice during a recent stay. The 50-room resort is located on a 5-acre peninsula within walking distance of Cruz Bay. All suites feature one bedroom, although they come in a variety of configurations. A pool, restaurant, bar, cafe, and fitness center are on the property as well.
Grande Bay Resort, located near Cruz Bay, is also a condo and suite-style property with a pool and hot tub. It overlooks the ocean and is within a short walk to the beach. Warfside Village, which has a variety of restaurants and shops, is nearby as well.
Concordia Eco Resort is one of the more unique resort offerings. It’s located in the more rural part of the island, between Drunk Bay and Salt Pond Bay. Guests go to feel reconnected to nature while staying in villa, treehouse or cabana-style lodging.
St. John has other options which have become mainstays on the small island over the decades. The funky, brightly decorated St. John Inn was our choice prior to a sailing trip. Affordable rates, a small pool, and complimentary breakfast and happy hour made it a great stay.
There’s also the chic 14-room Hotel Cruz Bay. And there’s fan-favorite Inn at Tamarind Court. Plus, there’s the adorable all-adult Garden By the Sea Bed and Breakfast.
With varied options available, St. John is doable for a variety of budgets.
Rental homes in St. John:
Many visitors to St. John opt to stay in rental homes through Airbnb or VRBO. They often come with pools, full kitchens, and ocean views. We’ve rented a home on the island and found it a great way to explore the area. We even found a private chef who came to cook a few nights. While that’s not as common as on some other islands or international Caribbean locations, it’s not impossible to find.
Thanks to the beautiful rolling hills that characterize St. John, many “beachfront” properties are perched high above the beach. So, technically on the water, getting to the shore requires more steps than in some other locations.
Nonetheless, having a private home to call home base helps if you have a large party or want more room to spread out.
Some of the condo options above are available to rent through rental home sites because some units are privately owned. Other single-family homes are only available on these sites.
Things To Do In St. John
The three s’s (sand, surf, and sun) rule in the tropical oasis that is St. John. So, much of what there is to do centers around those things.
But, in typical St. John style, the island puts its signature spin on things. That’s because you won’t be shoulder to shoulder with other beachgoers in many spots. Rather, you have a good shot at finding your own sliver of paradise to enjoy.
Explore and snorkel at the beaches
Beach hopping is practically a sport in St. John. Renting a Jeep or 4-wheel drive vehicle and traversing the windy roads is literally the most popular thing to do. You’ll find an array of beaches. Some have parking and extras, like food nearby. Others can only be accessed via hiking trails.
While there are many beaches, here are a few favorites:
Favorite beaches you can drive to on St. John
Trunk Bay is one of the most popular beaches, thanks in part to the 650-foot-long underwater snorkeling trail. Signs along the trail provide directions as well as identifications of coral and fish. Restrooms, food concessions, showers, a rental shop, and a gift shop are also located on this beach, which charges a $5 admission fee. And while the parking is limited, taxi cabs frequent the area, making it a bit more accessible than some. Trunk Bay is also the beach that cruise ship passengers can often reach via an excursion from St. Thomas. So, checking cruise ship schedules can help you avoid coming to this beach on a crowded day.
Hawks Nest is almost as popular, although it doesn’t offer food concessions or as many other amenities. It does however have more parking and access to barbecue grills, pavilions, and picnic tables. It’s also partially lined with beautiful sea grape trees providing shade.
Maho Bay is the perfect spot to spot sea turtles and snorkel relatively close to shore. Like Trunk Bay and Hawks Nest, is sits right along North Shore Road. With shallow water for a sizable stretch, it’s great for families. The beach has nearby bathrooms, grills, and a few covered pavilions with picnic tables.
Cinnamon Bay, another North Shore Road beach, is one of the longest stretches of white sand on the island. Bathrooms, a cafe, and a shop with rentals and souvenirs are nearby. What makes this beach different is it’s also one of the few places to camp beachside. Guests can choose from a variety of accommodations. Bare site rentals include a wood platform with rain cover, picnic table, and charcoal grill. Eco-tent sites come with things like a queen size bed, linens, some cooking supplies, and a picnic table. Cottages on the property are small buildings that sleep four.
Oppenheimer Beach, also called Gibney Beach, is a bit different than others on the list. Parking is very limited so it receives smaller crowds and has less space than some beaches. But, it’s a great place to relax under a shade tree and wade in the waters.
And for fellow history lovers, it’s an interesting place to be. It’s the location of Oppenheimer’s cottage. This is where the father of the atomic bomb spent time entertaining and enjoying the island he loved. The property is also officially a community center and is rentable for gatherings. So be aware sections of the property may be closed for the day on occasion.
Favorite beaches to hike to on St. John
Palm tree-lined Salomon Bay is accessible via Lind Point Trail. Although it’s no longer quite as hidden as it once was, it’s still a gem with gorgeous water, snorkeling, and white sand. The 1-mile hike to get to it is relatively easy and very pretty. This beach is also easily accessible by water, so boaters often enjoy this one as well.
Honeymoon Beach is one of the beaches that sits near the now-closed Caneel Bay Resort. Accessing it on foot requires a 30-minute hike so it doesn’t get a lot of beachgoers. Like others in the list, it’s located within the property of the Virgin Islands National Park.
Salt Pond Bay is reachable by a 10-15 minute hike from a small parking lot nearby. Yes, you’ll have to lug your things along the path, but the calm quiet beach is a great reward for doing so. This beach doesn’t get very crowded.
Other water activities
Sailing is another very popular thing to do in St. John. In fact many great spots to see are best accessed via a sailboat, making chartering a boat a perfect way to explore.
We’ve spent several St. John vacations sleeping on a sailboat for our trip. We’ve done kids-in- tow vacations as well as adults-only trips this way. Both have been among our favorite vacations and top our list of ways to explore unique family vacation spots. We booked trips with a captain and first mate, which includes two meals a day cooked by the crew. It’s a fantastic way to explore both the U.S. Virgin Islands and the nearby British Virgin Islands.
Even if you prefer to lay your head on dry land, sailing is an option. Private and group sailings for a day or afternoon are popular as well. Other water activities available on the island include paddle boarding, kayaking (check out this night kayaking adventure), and jet skiing.
Hiking on St. John
You’ve already learned that the pot of gold at the end of the hiking rainbow, at least in St. John, is often a beach.
But, it turns out some beaches offer great hikes from the beach itself as well.
Drunk Bay and Ram Head Trail are two such examples. Both of these trails are located off of Salt Pond beach. Drunk Bay has a stone and corral shoreline while Ram Head’s one-mile trek ends in an ascent that offers breathtaking views of Salt Pond below.
You’ll find various levels of difficulty as well as varied locations of trails on the island. The Lind Point Trail, for example, is easily accessible because it begins right at the Cruz Bay Visitor’s Center. Caneel Hill Trail is similar in that it begins and ends in an easy-to-get-to-spot, Mongoose Junction in this case. But, it’s more challenging with rocky switchbacks and steep sections.
Other trails, like L’Esperance Trail and Reef Bay Trail are a little more secluded.
The St. John Visitor Center can give you detailed information about which trail might be best for you.
Explore history and nature
Although the island’s only official museum hasn’t reopened since Hurricane Irma hit St. John in 2017, history still abounds here. Many of the best walks and hikes in St. John come chock full of historical sites.
The National Park has taken care to preserve old ruins of sugar mill plantations, great houses, and rum factories. Annaberg Sugar Mill Plantation Ruins are some of the best preserved. The site includes what is left of a windmill, sugar factory, mill round, rum still, and slave quarters. A short, paved trail circles through the grounds and signage describes the sites.
More ruins can be found at places like Cinnamon Bay, Concordia, Lameshur Bay, and L’Esperance.
For even older history, visitors can check out the petroglyphs found at Reef Bay. The carvings are thought to date back to 900 A.D.
Nature lovers also have plenty to see in the island. Native plants and trees include sea grapes, mangoes, colorful cacti, and wild tamarind, among others. And the Island has a large variety of fish, mongoose, turtles, deer, and lizards.
Check out restaurants, cocktail spots … and dive bars
Even though St. John is small in size, there’s a little something for every taste bud. We were pleasantly surprised on our first trip to find the tiny island is a foodie destination, with quaint restaurant choices.
Extra Virgin Bistro was our favorite date night place, complete with a tasting menu that highlights fish caught that day.
Lime Out gets the prize for the most unique restaurant because it takes the term “swim-up bar” to a whole new level. It’s a floating taco restaurant and cocktail bar that can only be reached by boat. Book this snorkel trip that visits Lime Out.
And St. John’s bars are practically institutions on the island. Most are super casual, in keeping with the theme island native Kenny Chesney made famous. No shoes, no shirt, no problem sums up the vibe at many beachside St. John watering holes.
Some places, like the Beach Bar and Woody’s, are centrally located right in Cruz Bay. Others, like the Soggy Dollar Bar and Foxy’s, are best reached by boat.
At The Willy T for example, another boat-accessible, floating spot, you’ll find an infamous Painkiller. They also serve food and offer a chance to jump into the water from their deck.
Whereever you fill your mug in St. John, you’ll find every day’s a party on this Caribbean jewel.
Want to explore other Caribbean islands? Check out these posts about one day on Grand Turk and visiting a chocolate farm in the Dominican Republic.
