What to do in Tarifa, Spain in the off season (for non kitesurfers)
It’s no surprise that Paulo Coelho chose the city of Tarifa to be the setting for his best-selling book, The Alchemist. Between the bright white old town with it’s Moorish arches, the views of the African continent across the Mediterranean and the prevailing winds that bring distinct weather, Tarifa is traditional, mystical and touristy all at once.
Tarifa sits at the southernmost point of continental Europe where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic. It has a population of around 18,000, so it’s big enough that it has everything you need but small enough to have small-town charm. It is most well-known as the European capital of kite surfing, because of its strong winds and relatively warm weather.
Is Tarifa worth visiting if you aren’t into kitesurfing? Yes — especially if you like a mix of history, wild coastline, fresh local food, and a relaxed small-town vibe. In the off season the town feels like part historical village, part relaxed beach community, and part new age enclave. The summer crowds are gone, shops slow down, and what remains is a charming place to walk, eat, hike, and day trip. Here’s exactly what to do in Tarifa, Spain.
Getting there and getting around
There is no airport in or even near Tarifa. Most visitors fly into Málaga and take the 3-4 hour bus ride to Tarifa. If you are coming from the UK, some flights land in Gibraltar, which is also an option. Trains exist but are not very frequent; there are a few trains daily from Madrid to Algeciras, where you would then take a short 45-minute bus ride to Tarifa.
The good news is, once in Tarifa everything is walkable. If you prefer not to walk, there are local Tarifa taxis near the bus station. In summer the town can be extremely crowded and parking becomes difficult so walking is the best option.
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Where to Stay in Tarifa
If your trip is not primarily about beaches, staying inside the old town is the best way to soak in the atmosphere and be close to shops, bars, and historic sites.
I spent 6 days in Tarifa in December with Nomadico, a company that organizes co-living experiences around the world. In addition to a private room with a desk and a co-working space, I got to be part of an awesome community of people to explore the city with. Nomadico gifted me the accommodation in return for telling about my experience with them.
Tarifa’s old town
The heart of Tarifa is the Casco Antiguo, the white-walled old town beside the port. Much of it looks as it did centuries ago, with narrow streets and buildings with traditional zaguán entrances that open onto a courtyard.
The city was surrounded by walls, most of which are still in place. The Puerta de Jerez was the main city gate and it’s still in tact today.
Make sure to walk through the Plaza de Santa María. It has a fun fountain with ceramic frogs and the city hall building. On this square is what is probably my favorite building in Tarifa, the castle-like public library pictured below. It’s only about 100 years old, but it was originally a school before it became the library. There’s nothing special to see on the inside, but the outside is a great spot for photos!
Tarifa’s Mercado Central
The Central Market is worth a stop to see the architecture and see how locals shop. It dates back to 1927 and the building housed a convent centuries before the market. The market has the usual meat, fruits and baked goods but also the famous bluefin tuna famous in these parts. There are tables to sit and eat in the middle of the shops, so it’s a good place to come for a pastry and coffee while you people watch.
Right next door to the market is a mural of painted tiles that pays homage to Tarifa’s fishing industry.
Castle of Guzmán el Bueno
The castle sits right in the old town next to the port so you can’t miss it. Admission is normally 3 euros but when I went on a Sunday afternoon we got in free. Check with the tourist office because it’s usually closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
The castle was of very strategic importance, as you can probably imagine considering its location. The way it got it’s name is an interesting one. In 1294 the Moors of North Africa were besieging the fort and had captured the son of the governor at the time, Alonso Pérez de Guzmán. When they threatened to kill his son, he refused to give up and even threw down his own dagger for them to use. His son was killed but the Spanish held on to the fort and Guzmán el Bueno became a legend.
The castle is quite extensive and offers some impressive views, including right across the straight to Africa.
Coastal hikes and unexpected sights
For a convenient hike you can do right from town, take the coastal trail that begins near the eastern side of the castle walls. The route is part of the European walking system, but markings can be sparse, so a phone map helps. It starts out going inland through a small grove of bamboo and then leads out to the coast. When I went, there were only a few other hikers but I was surprised to encounter some cows with big horns on the trail! Fortunately they weren’t too interested in people.
Along the route there are a number of abandoned bunkers and watch towers, and some sort of abandoned military ship; reminders of the strategic importance of the area even recently.
Hiking is especially nice in the shoulder months when temperatures are mild and trails are quiet. Wear sturdy shoes, dress in layers, bring water, and be ready for windy sections. Also, the sun is very strong here, so make sure to wear sunscreen even in the winter.
whale watching and tuna
One experience that is not usually done in the winter is whale watching (although you may be able to find a private boat to take you). But, if you come between April and September you’ll be very likely to see different types of whales and dolphins. Tours are 2-3 hours and if you don’t see whales or dolphins you can try another tour for free. This is the top-rated tour and most people report seeing lots of animals!
The orca whales hunt tuna fish, which Tarifa is famous for. Even if it’s not in season, you can stop at Mackintosh Tuna to learn more and pick up some tuna to take home. They have special days when you can go out on the boat with them to catch the tuna. Then they have a viewing room at the store where you can watch the ronqueo, the quartering of the bluefin tuna with champagne and tastings.
Food and Restaurants in Tarifa
I did not expect the food in Tarifa to be so good! I guess it’s because it’s in a place that gets lots of fresh produce and seafood. Since I had access to a kitchen, so I only ate at a few restaurants but I would definitely recommend Boca Ratón. I noticed that the number of restaurants in the city with more than 4.5 stars was incredible!
My favorite thing is pastries and sweets, and Tarifa was great for that. I made daily stops at La Tarifeña and Pastelería Bernal. Tarifa even has some special pastries native to the city like the cajilla that you’ll have to try.
Day trips from Tarifa
The most popular day trip from Tarifa is to take a day trip to Morocco! It may seem like a long way to go in a day, but there are numerous fast ferries that leave every few hours right from the port in Tarifa. Go on foot or bring your bike or car if you are going for more than a day.
Another day trip that is technically also to another country is Gibraltar. This British city is about an hour and a half bus ride from Tarifa. It’s English-speaking and you can climb the rock of Gibraltar to see monkeys.
Tarifa Beaches
The beaches in Tarifa are easy to access, have nice fine, white sand and were very clean when I was there. While outside of summer it’s a little cold for swimming, it’s still lovely to walk along the beach or take a blanket and watch a sunset. Many beach bars like Charinguito Waikiki are open year round and you can grab a drink inside or out.
Playa Chica is a tiny beach right by the peninsula that juts out to Tarifa Island, so it’s well protected. Playa de Lances, on the other hand, is the main beach and its wind is what has made it the most famous destination for kite surfers in Europe. Even if you aren’t into this sport, you’ll be entertained watching the kite surfers wrestle with their kites and impressed with how they harness the wind to go so high.
If you are adventurous and want to try kitesurfing you can take a lesson. The people that I talked to said that kitesurfing takes a few days to learn though, so don’t expect to catch on right away.
An easier choice would be windsurfing lessons, or even wing foil lessons if you want to try something special.
There’s also a great sculpture on the boardwalk you have to see. It’s a tuna fish that is also a wind vane. Around the base are the names of the winds that blow through Tarifa from all directions. The two main winds are the levante and the poniente.
Tarifa Island: Where the Atlantic meets the Mediterranean
The true southernmost point on the European continent is Tarifa Island. It used to be an island but is technically now a peninsula because there is a walkway from the mainland. It’s possible to tour the island, but you need to sign up and pay in advance at the tourist office and the tour is only in Spanish. The island is part of the National Park, so it’s protected and there are actually some plants that only grow on the island and nowhere else.
The island has been used for many things over the years, including a military fort, so you can see some decrepit machines and buildings. One thing that is still intact is the lighthouse. Inside there is a small, modern museum about the lighthouse and the island.
The good news is you don’t need to book this tour to get the feel for being at the Southernmost point. On the walkway to the island is your photo op: On the left is a sign that says Mar Mediterráneo and on the right Océano Atlántico. It’s definitely a fun feeling to walk between the two!
My Take on Tarifa
Tarifa in the off season is a blend of history, wind swept beaches, good food, and nearby Morocco. It is easy to enjoy even if you are not drawn by kite surfing. The city is big enough to not be bored but small enough to get around easily. With good walking and hiking, fresh pastries, and dramatic sea views, Tarifa makes a memorable short break.
Traveling to other parts of Spain or Spain in December? Don’t miss my posts on A Perfect Day in Valencia and Christmas Traditions in Spain and Catalunya.
